Anchovy-Stuffed Fried Leaves of Sage

The two raised garden beds behind the Worth are far from fecund. Three towering trees - perfect for screening views of the neighbors sorely neglected back yards - are probably the culprit. There's just not enough sunlight for a bountiful harvest of sun-loving vegetables. The appetites of urban critters may also be to blame. This year's hot pepper plants mysteriously disappeared, without a trace, one hot summer night.

That said, the little urban garden does provide a modicum of sustenance. Kale and collards grow extremely well, as do green beans and lettuces. Thankfully, most herbs - with the notably exception of cilantro - appear to absolutely love the little corner of the space that thankfully gets a few hours of sun. I use Italian parsley, basil, rosemary, mint, and thyme with utter abandon. The lone sage plant, however, has received limited attention. It's as if those neglected, now-oversized leaves are just crying for consumption.

As it turns out, sage leaves are perfect for an inventive Italian spuntino that features the freshness of the herb and the umami savoriness of a good-quality anchovy. The dish, according to the Italian gastronomic tome La Cucina: The Regional Cooking of Italy (recently published in English for the first time), was once popular in the southern Tuscan town of Piombino.

I've never traveled to Piombino, and from a quick glance at its location I don't think I ever will. It's situated on a little cape jutting out into the Mediterranean Sea and with a connecting ferry to the Island of Elba.

Picturesque? I imagine so.

Too many tourists to tolerate? Most definitely.

Anchovy-Stuffed Fried Leaves of Sage

• 24 large sage leaves
• 1 and 1/2 cups all purpose flour; extra for dredging
• 6 good quality anchovies; preferably salt cured; rinsed
• 1/2 cup white wine - my standard is an inexpensive pinot grigio
• 1 large egg white; beaten until foamy
• Olive oil

Dredge sage leaves in flour; cut anchovies in half lengthwise and sandwich each half between two sage leaves; squeeze them so they stick together; meanwhile, whisk flour, wine, egg white, and a few drops of oil to form a batter; dredge sage leaf sandwiches in batter and fry until golden brown in hot olive oil - about three inches deep in a large saucepan; serve with lemon wedges and a basil or sage leaf to garnish.

Since this tasty little dish hails from Tuscany, I figured it would be a good excuse to open up a bottle of Brunello di Montalcino.

But, then again, there's always a good reason to open a Brunello.