When late spring makes its changeover into summer, I always make a point to leaf through Steven Raichlen's The Barbeque Bible. In my estimation, Raichlen is the very best when it comes to cooking on the grill. Why? Mainly because he doesn't incessantly rehash the same old tired American barbeque traditions like ribs and burgers and chicken wings. Instead, he takes you on a voyage of bountiful barbeque exploration around the world and documents the unique recipes that regions ranging from South America to Southeast Asia to the Mediterranean hold dear.That's what I'm talking about.
Admittedly, however, I am still a barbeque neophyte. Our grill is a dented, dusty, rusty mid-sized Weber Kettle Grill that K pulled out of the dilapidated garage of her old apartment and salvaged as a memento of 10+ years living in the tree tops of Squirrel Hill. Sometimes you have to hit the grill's vent lever with a hammer to get it to open. Other times, one of the legs slips out of its socket and you have to prop the darn thing up on a garden stone to keep it from spilling its coals. But if it ain't broke - or in this case ain't completely broke - don't fix it. It reminds me of an old Amish draft horse that, though lumbering and half-blind, still gets the job done. Plus, I like its history.
The grill has been out twice this year. And when the grill comes out in June, it's usually because sockeye salmon is in season. Although there is some debate, sockeye is generally considered a sustainable fish that gets positive marks from the Monterey Bay Aquarium's Seafood Watch. Ours came from Alaska, via Whole Foods, which carries them for just a few short months.
The indirect heat, hot smoke method as spelled out by Steven Raichlen seems perfect for sockeye. Start your fire using natural all-wood charcoal and a chimney starter. When the coals are ready (20 minutes) pour them out into one side of the kettle grill. I use a piece of rolled up aluminum foil to form a barrier. Then drop mesquite wood chips that have been soaked in water for 20 minutes directly on top of the coals. Insert the grilling grate and oil lightly using a paper towl clenched in tongs. The salmon is then placed on the side of the grill NOT above the coals. Close the lid making sure the top vents are open and positioned above the fish. This will ensure that the smoke flows over the fish as it exits the vents. Keep the bottom vents open half way. The hot smoke indirect method generally takes 20-25 minutes for a 1 pound piece of fish... a little longer if you like the thin edges to become crispy fish candy.
The salmon keeps well and can be used in an array of other applications. I like to have some leftovers for the following morning to put on top a toasted onion bagel with cream cheese, chopped red onion, and capers, and drizzled with olive oil and cracked black pepper.
The flavor of smoked wild salmon is such that you don't need a sauce. But I chopped up some chives and mixed them with some creme fraiche just for good measure. On the side, we had a goat cheese, green onion and thyme tart that came from the Williams Sonoma Spring cookbook authored by Joanne Weir. I have had this book in my cookbook collection for years, but until this weekend had no idea that Weir was the author. K made the crust. She's got great baking skills, but her attention and/or obsession of late is with fiber arts... For now, clothes on our backs come at the expense of tasty treats in our stomachs.
As a finishing touch, I made a quick strawberry granita from some very small, super-sweet berries from the farmer's market. I just pureed them in the blender and added a touch of sugar, then poured them out into a large, edged cookie sheet and placed it in freezer. The rest is easy. Let it set for about 45 minutes, then use a wooden spatula to break up the ice crystals as they form. Put back in freezer and continue doing this every 30 minutes, making sure that no large ice clumps form and you have only fine crystals. Then serve with a few whole berries and a spring of mint.
