Monday, April 15, 2013

La Stracciatella

We refer to it as "sick soup." Though unappetizing in name, this is one of those soups that Italian American tradition says will help you recover from a wide array of ailments.

Possibly. At the very least, it provides a nourishing, tasty meal while one recovers from the misery of a cold. At that, the psychological benefits are immense.

According to Malpezzi and Clements, the authors of Italian American Folkore, la stracciatella was indeed commonly known in immigrant communities as a "soup of documented therapeutic and recuperative virtues." Originally, it was made with a whole chicken - head, feet and all - which was boiled with aromatics and served with egg and cheese. I use Mario Batali's version as a starting point, which uses inexpensive chicken parts instead.

His "brown chicken stock," I think, is one of the best simple stock recipes out there. Double the ingredients for a larger batch and freeze for later.


La Stracciatella 
(Recipe by Mario Batali)
-6 cups chicken stock, recipe follows
-3 eggs
-3 tablespoons semolina
-3 tablespoons grated Parmigiano Reggiano
-1 tablespoon Italian parsley, finely chopped
-Pinch nutmeg
-Salt and pepper

Measure out 1 of the 6 cups chicken stock and refrigerate so that it is cold; In a large stock pot, bring the remaining 5 cups of chicken stock to a boil; In a large bowl, combine the cold broth, eggs, semolina, cheese, parsley and nutmeg and whisk until well blended; Whisk the mixture into the boiling stock and reduce heat to low; Continue to whisk for 3 to 4 minutes; Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper and divide evenly among 6 warmed soup bowls; Serve immediately, topped with more grated cheese if desired.

Brown Chicken Stock:
-2 tablespoons EV olive oil
-3 1/2 pounds chicken wings, backs, and bones
-2 carrots, coarsely chopped
-2 onions, coarsely chopped
-2 leeks, coarsely chopped
-2 tablespoons tomato paste
-1 tablespoon black peppercorns
-1 bunch parsley stems

In a large, heavy-bottomed pot, heat the oil over high heat until smoking; Add chicken parts and brown; Remove the chicken and reserve; Add the carrots, onions, leeks to the pot and cook until soft and browned; Return the chicken to the pot and add 3 quarts of water, the tomato paste, peppercorns, and parsley; Stir with a wooden spoon to dislodge the browned chicken and vegetables bits from the bottom of the pan; Bring almost to a boil, then reduce heat and cook at a low simmer, about 2 hours, occasionally skimming excess fat. Remove from heat, strain; Cool then refrigerate stock in small containers for up to a week or freeze for up to a month.